Effective natural solubilizer - Durosoft PG10-CY

Strong growth of natural Ingredients

As the demand for natural and sustainable personal care products continues to gather pace on a global scale, the importance of sensory, aesthetic and effectiveness aspects of product ranges need to match the increasingly high expectations of customers who want as much natural and clean ingredients as possible in their hair and skin care products they choose to buy. The global market for personal care products is expected to reach approximately $500 billion by 2020. The market for product ingredients is likely to grow even faster over the same forecast period. Valued at $7.46 billion in 2014, the ingredients market is expected to reach almost $12 billion by 2023.

Formulators and manufacturers need to be more aware than ever before of the latest trends in the personal care sector and the motivations behind consumers’ product choice. With the market’s value in constant growth, pressure continues to mount from consumers for the industry to clean up its environmental act and offer clean ingredients free from chemicals.

What is a solubilizer?

In the personal care and cosmetics industry, solubilizers help to make otherwise insoluble liquids soluble in water. Solubilizers are generally surfactants with an HLB between 13-18 and are usually more water soluble than oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers. Solubilizers and emulsifiers function on the same principle. Both help (at least) two immiscible ingredients to mix, usually oil and water.

The main difference is that by solubilisation, the particle size of the dispersed phase is so small that the final product appears transparent or translucent. However, when emulsifying, the particle size is much higher and the product appears milky.

Due to their ability to complement the sensorial function by solubilizing perfume, fragrances and essential oils, solubilizers are widely used in a variety of applications in haircare, skincare and shower and bath products like shower gels, cosmetic bases, conditioners etc.

Natural solubilizers for fragrances on the rise

As most solubilizers available on the market are synthetic there is a high demand to find effective natural alternatives. By using a natural solubilizer, the total percentage of natural materials in the final product also increases, making the product more appealing to consumers.

According to their properties, different solubilisers are used for different types of fragrances/EO. Market demand for natural solubilisers such as Durosoft PG10-CY is increasing exponentially.

Durosoft PG10-CY MB was tested against other commercially available solubilizers with a selection of fragrances and EO, from categories based on Michael Edward’s fragrance wheel. The 10:1 ratio of solubiliser: fragrance/EO gave the highest number of clear solutions across four of the solubilisers tested, whereas a 3:1 ratio of solubiliser: fragrance/EO produced solutions with the most haze. The study demonstrated the effective performance of a COSMOS approved, 100% naturally derived ester, establishing Durosoft PG10-CY a good option as an alternative to synthetic solubilisers such as PGE - Polysorbate 20 and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil for cosmetic and personal care products.

Image shows performance stability when using different oil to ingredient ratios. The same test was applied to test common synthetic solubilisers (Polysorbate 20 and Peg 40 hydrogenated castor oil) in comparison to natural solubilizer Durosoft PG10-CY.

Durosoft PG10-CY an effective natural solubilizer for fragrances

Part of Stephenson’s naturally derived, COSMOS approved surfactants, emollients and solubilisers, Durosoft PG10 CY is an ingredient that can be used in a variety of haircare, cosmetic and personal care applications. It is COSMOS approved polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate an effective non-ionic solubiliser of fragrances, essential oils and lipophilic oils into aqueous systems due to the large polyglyceryl head group. This ingredient is effective in solubilising fragrances and essential oils into soap, bath, haircare and skincare products.

The full Durosoft range is a unique range of naturally derived polyglyceryl esters which use state of the art technology to provide natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients found in many cosmetic and personal care products. The diverse product range includes natural, RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) and palm free ingredients.

Manufacturers and formulators can be confident that formulating with Durosoft means greater access to a wider range of natural ingredients, esters that are compatible with oil and water phases, no deleterious effect on temperature sensitive ingredients and a broader array of HLB than other commonly used ingredients in the personal care market for a greater stability profile. In addition, as the range carries sustainable ingredients and it is PEG (polyethylene glycol) free, EO free and skin friendly, this represents great news for both consumers and the environment.

Natural Micellar Water Fomulation

With natural micellar water products on the rise, we have included this in our Durosoft formulation guide with Durosoft PG10-CY.

METHOD:

• Prepare stage B by dissolving aloe vera powder into water
• Weigh and combine stage A ingredients, then add stage B and heat to 50°C under stirring
• Cool down to 40°C, and add stage C ingredients gradually under stirring
• Adjust to pH 5.0-5.5